the 4-1-1 on the C-O-L

Soil & Compost

2010-08-11T19:59:00.000-07:00

I've heard many times that the key to a successful garden is great soil. Good dirt is like a bank account- you have to keep making deposits. When I started the garden I had the misperception that once you buy good soil your garden for the rest of the garden's life. With some of the plants not thriving as I had hoped over the summer, decided it best to spend the last six weeks amending the soil and holding off on planting anything else until September. The whole process started with my friend Georgie helping me dig up all the garden beds a foot deep to break up the soil. It was not pretty.

hopefully won't have to buy too much more of this...

Added this too and some blocks of coconut core for water retention along with worm castings- since everyone thinks they're the absolute ultimate for boosting your soil.

Kate gave me a great tip- City of Santa Barbara sells compost buckets for $40 at the dump.

I was a little hesistant to start a compost since my last experience with composting was sullied by a stinky dirt pile that smelled like a garbage pit and was crawling with pests- it was my roomate's project and made me a skeptical composter ever since. However; since I've dropped way too much money on buying dirt, compost and other soil boosters- I decided to give it a run. Mine is still brewing- so far no big stink, rats, or major yuck. Here's some tips that helped me....

:: chop up everything small- it will compost faster. Don't throw big things in there because it will take too long to digest. I've heard of people even having a composting blender

:: algae and seaweed are great addition if you live by the sea

:: to start your compost, add some of a friend's compost (who you trust)- it will help speed up the process

:: it needs a diet of green (nitrogen-rich) & brown (carbon-rich) materials. GREEN includes: veggie/fruit scraps, rice, pasta, egg shells, tea bags, yard greens, hair (it has lots of nitrogen) BROWN: compostable napkins, paper, dried leaves, twigs, etc. Your compost should be 2 to 3 parts brown waste to 1 part green waste

:: DON'T compost sauces, meat, fish, dairy, weeds, citrus peels, ashes or any plants in your garden that are diseased or aren't growing well- you don't want to propogate that.

:: stir your compost-it needs oxygen. I use a small pitchfork. Add some water if it seems too dry- it should feel like a damp towel.

:: your compost will be ready anywhere from 6 wks to 6 months- depending on how great your mixture is. Put your bin in the sun to get the compost cooking- optimum temperature is 90-135 degrees F!

:: finished compost should be half of what you started with but denser and richer. Add finished compost to your garden 2-4 weeks before you plant to give it time to integrate with the soil.

summer garden

2010-08-11T16:33:00.000-07:00

heirloom tomatoes

lavender

cherry tomatoes and potted things

The funky weather this summer hasn't been great for growing things. The cherry tomatoes were a success, but many things didn't grow as well as I had hoped. Looking forward to fall planting!

basil.

Ricki from South Africa

perfect summer evening: flatbread pizza, vino and good company.

time for oils and elephants...

2010-08-11T16:31:00.001-07:00

This was an elephant I saw while visiting the Angkor Wat temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia on my birthday.

Almost any time I paint anything- it involves the sea, swimming, or surfing. I decided to pick a subject that didn't involve water. Also decided I wanted to try oils instead of acrylics... we'll see how it goes.

lettuce and herbs....

2009-10-29T21:20:00.000-07:00

This basil was from the farmers market- we transplanted it. Although it looks nice here, we ended up pulling it out because Meg tried to cook with it and it was disgusting.

little herb patch- thyme, cilantro, sage, parsley & dill.

Here's the plants I bought at ACE before they went in the ground.

that's some good dirt.

lettuce patch. From the back: Romaine, butter lettuce, arugula, spinach in the front row (not pictured.)

planted herbs and poppies in the cinder blocks.

lavender by the door.

Peas...

2009-10-29T21:04:00.000-07:00

borrowed a staple gun from Gino to put up the trellis netting for the peas to climb.

Strawberries!

2009-10-29T20:26:00.000-07:00

This is the garden gate. I finished putting the mulch up to the door, but had ran out when I took this photo.

Planted six strawberry plants in these cinder blocks- they're pictured above as you enter the gate. Apparently strawberries like to grow in pots.

Put a pot under the table...

put a strawberry in it. Strawberries grow year round here.

Tips for growing strawberries...

Bees carry more pollen to strawberry blossoms than the wind- so try to attract bees to your garden. more pollen= bigger berries.
Strawberries should not be planted where tomatoes, eggplant raspberries or potatoes have grown since these plants can harbor verticillium- a bad disease for strawberries.
They need good drainage, sun and prefer sandy, nutrient rich soil
All varieties of strawberries have the same care/planting procedure but vary in sweetness and harvest time. A few of the best-tasting, disease-resistant June bearers are "earligrow," "tristar," and "jewel."
If you're planting them as perennials pinch off all the flowers and runners the first year- this will ensure your berries develop a good root system.

Lanterns.

2009-10-29T20:06:00.000-07:00

The garden lantern idea is from Apartment Therapy (http://www.apartmentherapy.com/) a great blog about home design. Meg found these mason jars at the Junk Store in Carp.

Loop the wire around the top and make a hook.

Fill partway with sand and drop a tea light inside. This sand is kind of special because it's from Hammonds, my favorite place to be in Santa Barbara.

This is a lame picture because they look much better when its dark, they're lit and you're actually there. We had a big garden feast- we lit all the lanterns, roasted a chicken, pulled out all the tables and improvised seating we could find. There was plenty of friends and even more food and the whole affair wouldn't have been nearly as magical or possible without the lanterns.

Garden Improvements

2009-09-20T11:45:00.000-07:00

still a mess- green boards for raised beds. moved the stone path. installing bender board....

i love mulch- it's instant gratification.

mulching the dust bowl.

got a spiffy hose hanger

Meg and Justin whacking away at the bender boards.

Garbage bags for under the mulch to keep the weeds down. Thank goodness we did that because after the big rains the backyard looked like a lawn- it was so green and weedy. However, where we laid down the garbage bags there was only the occasional weed that managed to sprout up through one of the drainage holes we poked.

SURF rack.

2009-09-20T11:29:00.001-07:00

materials... getting started.

taping off stripes... which wasn't as clean and effective as I had imagined.

paint job.

installation. Gino- our landlord put the silver piece in for extra support.

the blue rack will sit below this one... I'm going to wait and install it when I get my new board.

we have more bikes than surfboards.

I've been wanting to make a surf rack for awhile now. Even though my board is old and crappy- I still love it and want to take care of it. I'm getting a new board soon- so the second blue rack will go underneath this one. I spent a lot of time painting the wooden sticks- and figured it was a waste of time, but they're actually pretty noticeable. Very happy my board now has a home and doesn't have to take up our much needed ground space.

ROSE...

2009-08-10T20:14:00.000-07:00

this is Rose- the garden queen.

after meeting with Rose and compiling ideas between the three of us- I drew a sketch to visualize what we talked about.

Tips from Rose...

I met Rose through my friend Lannie. Her name suits her very well- she is lovely and a true garden encyclopedia! She came by to assist in some of the preliminary planning and also answer a bunch of our questions....

Here's some tips she gave as well as what's going down in the ground.

Beans are a natural nitrogen fixer for the soil- they grow well on tomato cages
Garlic and onions are good things to have in your garden- their smell keeps bad bugs and grubs away
You might as well buy cocoa mulch- it smells like chocolate
You can use newspaper as mulch
Raccoons hate having their feet tangled. Since we have coons we're going to put trellis netting on the top of our fence to keep them out. They will make a mess of your garden in search of grubs in the soil not veggies to eat.
Plant an already sprouting tomato plant very deep into the soil- sink at least 1/4 down.
Summer plants don't like getting their leaves wet, water at the base (a watering mat from weedfreegarden.com is probably the most water conservative, efficient and easy way.) Winter plants don't mind so much, they're use to getting rained on from above.
Don't plant everything all at once- plant in succession so you neither feast nor famine.
Fish fertilizer, compost and iron and zinc supplements will get your soil rich and ready

August is a harvest month so we will use the time to get our soil ready, put up our trellis netting, and construct our raised bed. We'll start planting in September. Since we're entering cool season (September to May) here's our list of things that prefer that time of the year.

beets, lettuces, chard (easy to plant by seed,) peas, broccoli, asian greens, spinach, cilantrol, brussel sprouts, onions

garden spasm...

2009-08-09T21:20:00.000-07:00

Our first Sunday of clearing the lot, I asked our landlord Gino for a pick axe. He unveiled this tool heaven thats available for all the cottages in Casalino Court- it runs on the honor system. I ran back to Brittany and Meg to tell them about the gold mine I"d just discovered- we all trotted back over and spent some time admiring and handling all the cool tools.

this is an avocado picker for the monster of an avocado tree nearby.

Meg and I cut down the lettuce and are planning to rip it all out- it's too hot right now. Lettuce likes less sun.

already growing tomato plants and cages- that have been over-watered by us.

Here's a bunch of seeds leftover from Jake and James (former tenants.) It's too bad we left them in the sun because now they're useless- they should be stored in ziplocs in the freezer.

This is our front yard- we'll get to it eventually. You'd think you work front to back, but in this case we're going back to front. We both hate that purple bucket.

We're thinking of planting herbs in these cinder blocks. When summer comes again possibly some peppers, strawberries and tomatoes as well since they like to be drained.

garden feet...

I didn't think I would start blogging again until I either went on another long trip or had a family of my own. However; recently I started missing blogging and decided that even if I'm not traveling I'm encountering interesting things, places and ideas. I find myself often whining how I never have enough time to craft or create these days and then recently I came to the realization that even though I don't have tv, I do spend an adequate amount of time "dinkin" around on the internet. It may seem ironic- since blogging involves being online, but my hope is that blogging again will motivate me to make space for creativity.

When my roomate Meaghan and I recently based most of our decision to move a block up the street due to the allure of our very own backyard, I figured it was the perfect opportunity to get going on projects again and track the evolution of our very own garden. Growing up my mom always reminded me that gardening is often romanticized and really more about the back breaking, sun-blistering labor called "weeding." I have a vivid summer memory of helping her fulfill her weekly weeding duties at the local COOP- one of the best alternatives to reaping the benefits of a plentiful garden with minimal work. I was assigned to picking the potato bugs off endless rows of plants under the humid, unforgiving Connecticut sun and anxiously tapping the side of the bucket so the little devils wouldn't escape. Then and there I realized what my mom was talking about and for a long time I just decided the truth of the matter was that although gardening sounded good in my head, it really wasn't all that pleasant in reality. Since then I grew up and moved to Santa Barbara- the growing season is endless, I have a small, manageable and sunny backyard, I like cooking and am an avid environmentalist. I think learning to grow your own food is important, economical and pretty hip. Thanks to my mom I'm mentally prepared that a lot of work is involved- so here's our first attempt.

Until next time....

2008-12-14T07:42:00.000-08:00

As a final post I want to thank all the people who sustained and inspired me over this past year. From the women in Terra Prometida, Brazil, to the kilombo of Buenos Aires, my dear friend Linnea, to the Gerrity´s in Vina del Mar and all the people I came across along the way- thank you for your friendship and generosity, for sharing your culture and opinions with me. Also to all the good people back home who sent their well wishes and prayers along the way. The beauty of not only the places I´ve been, but the people I´ve met during these travels have granted me new ways of thinking, understanding and appreciating the world. I feel incredibly blessed and grateful for this experience and all it has taught me. My only hope is that I can continue to give as others have given to me. Hasta la proxima aventura.....

"In the end, though, maybe we must all give up trying to pay back the people in this world who sustain our lives. In the end, maybe it's wiser to surrender before the miraculous scope of human generosity and to just keep saying thank you, forever and sincerely for as long as we have voices." - Eat, Pray, Love

Zapallar

2008-12-14T06:48:00.000-08:00

Machas... only in Chile. Rico!

Had yet to be in the sea on this side of South America.

On Saturday, Rob´s birthday, we spent the day in Zapallar- an exquisite beach community an hour or so up the coast. It is impressive- a pristine stretch of beach, grand old homes and precioso stone paths that wind along the ocean´s edge. The place has wonderful summer feel and much of the high season crowds had yet to arrive. Sure going to miss Rob and Jude's company!

Bariloche & San Martin De Los Andes

2008-12-14T04:23:00.000-08:00

This hike, Cerro Campamiento in Bariloche has a great view. It's short and steep. I hiked up there late afternoon and got lost on the way down. I came down on the wrong side of the mountain into a maze of fields, small paths and no sense of where I was. I kind of panicked and even blew the whistle I had in my bag, which is pretty funny now that I think back on it. It really wasn't that bad, I just had to hike back up and find the right path- which I ended up managing to do before nightfall.

I only spent one night in Bariloche. After the tranquility of El Bolson the placed just seemed too much abuzz for me. It's quite touristy and rightly so- the landscape is really breathtaking.

I hiked out to this beach, La Islita, in San Martin de Los Andes the second day I was there. It was bliss.

The diving board was a long stick that jutted out over the lake. I spent a long time standing at the end- all ten toes on the nose.

I went to Quila Quina for the day with the owner of the hostel, Gonzalo and his family. This is his nine year old daughter, Paloma. She's very sweet, pre-cocious girl and I enjoyed spending the day making rock pictures and exploring the river with her.

Mi guia del rio.

Benito and his dad.

San Martin de Los Andes is a quaint, beautiful fishing town north of Bariloche. The lakes and scenery of the place are really spectacular. I was wishing my brother Paul was there to show me how to cast a line because I'm pretty sure I stepped into any fisherman's paradise. Many of the hikes in the area end at small pebble beaches and a wide open lake. Most of the surrounding area is protected by a national park so there is few if any houses on the lake and not many boats. I was tempted to join Paula from La Pampa, who I met at the hostel and look for a summer job.

Cajon De Azul

2008-12-14T04:10:00.001-08:00

Lots of rickety bridges on the way up to Cajon.

The water is turqoise.

Decided to dive in without feeling the water. It's glacier water. I got a brain freeze.

That's Claire and Jitka- the crazy girl from Czech I met.

I wanted to eat my way through that garden.

Arriving here after half a day's hike is really something. This place is way up in the mountains, in the middle of nowhere. That's Artilio- the owner and creator.

I couldn't get over the garden.

sheep on the run.

I thought they were fleas in my bed, but thankfully didn't get any bites. I think I was just imagining it because those mattresses look like prime candidates for bed bugs.

The next day one Czech, four Israelis, one German and one N. American braved the cold river. Vale la pena!

Christa and Jitka.

From El Bolson, I decided to hike up to Cajon de Azul- a refugio in the mountains and stay the night. The place was afuera de este mundo. The river you hike alongside on the way up is so turqoise and clear that you can hardly believe it. When you reach the Cajon- it´s as if you've stepped into a dream world. The garden is like nothing I've ever seen. I had a tarta de acelga (chard) that night for dinner, all fresh from the front yard- me mata. Artilio- the master of the whole place has done an incredible job. At the refugio I met this crazy girl, Jitka, from the Czech Republic. We spent the next couple days hiking, biking and hanging out together- she was a lot of fun.

El Bolson

2008-12-14T04:04:00.000-08:00

Tom and Ollie- Two Aussies enjoying a hearty asado.

Tom really took to his surroundings- straw hat, overalls, long hair... well done. Funny guy.

The day Tom left he said to me, "Man, I'm surprised I ever got out of that place." I knew exactly what he meant, tough place to leave.

Casa Del Viajero. Best hostel of the trip. Nay had been there weeks before and recommended it to me.

First day we hiked to Cabeza de Indio and found this waterfall on the way.

I saw this lake from the hike the previous day and decided to figure out how to take the bus there the following day.

I met some local teenagers who showed me where you can j ump off the cliffs.

The water wasn't that cold.

El Bolson is a beautiful laid-back town in Northern Patagonia just south of Bariloche. Many of the hippies in Buenos Aires relocated there in the 1960s and 70s. It is home to a famous craft market where many of the locals sell their hand-spun wares. I stayed at a great place called Casa de Viajero. The owner, Augustin and his wife, have created an idyllic oasis in the forest. Hand-crafted stone, wood houses and huts, fish ponds, hammocks, gardens, chickens. A lot of the travelers there had ended up staying much longer than planned, myself included. There's a lake in the next town, a great river and endless hiking. The people there are very easy-going and you get the sense they really enjoy living there. Being there made me realize how much I truly love the country.

El Chalten

2008-12-14T03:49:00.001-08:00

Caught in the wind at Lago Torre.

the general store in Chalten.

view of El Chalten.

The water in Patagonia is stunningly clear and you can drink straight from any running river- taste's better than Poland Springs.

This is for my brother-in-law Tim who once took me hunting for wild bonsai trees. Tim- is this one?

View of good ol' Fitz Roy from the trail. This is the mountain range that is on the Patagonia logo.

I liked this mountain a lot.

On the way to El Chalten, the bus stops at this house which serves food and has lots of animals roaming around. I really bonded with this colt.

Lots of blue from the bus.

The trail is the thing,
not the end
of the trail.
Travel too fast
and you miss
all you are
traveling for.

My friend Matias in Buenos Aires grew up and worked as a mountain guide in El Chalten. While I was living in BA he told me some incredible stories about El Chalten and since then it was the place I always wanted to visit in Patagonia. I rented some hiking boots upon my arrival so I could really hit the trails and also not be bothered by the annoying whistle made by the air bubble that had popped in the back of my sneaker in Torres Del Paine. I spent my 24th birthday hiking up to the infamous Fitz Roy on a surprisingly clear day. The weather the days before I arrived had been awful which made me re contenta I had made the last minute decision to hike in TDP. I stayed at a cozy hostel and on the night of my birthday was sung to in five languages and gifted a bottle of Malbec with a big, white candle melted on top. I'd like to go back there someday, those mountains are really something.

El Calafate

2008-12-14T03:40:00.000-08:00

It's really easy to take way more pictures than necessary of the glacier.

El Calafate at sunset.

From Torres Del Paine I crossed the border back into the good land of Argentina to see the Perito Moreno glacier on my way to El Chalten. There's some tourist attractions you could care less about and others that just nag at you until you see them. The Perito Moreno glacier was one of those things I just had to see. The plan was to blow in and out of Calafate, leaving just enough time to see the glacier. Unfortunately, due to a cancelled bus to Northern Patagonia from El Chalten, I had to return south to Calafate later on in the trip to catch the bus north. If you've seen the glacier, there is nothing left to do but browse lousy, over-priced trinket shops, visit the casino or buy chocolate... I opted for buying chocolate.

Torres Del Paine

2008-12-13T16:24:00.001-08:00

The sky in Pataonia is vast, it's as if your eyes cannot even comprehend its full expansion.

I didn't see much wildlife in the park, but here's some llamas.

Met Karla from New Zealand the first day up.

After I made it to the campsite the first day, I decided to hike up to see the Torres because it was so clear.

I really wanted to hike up for sunrise the following day, but I didn't have a flashlight and no one at the campsite wanted get up at 3:30am. Thankfully I was able to convince one of the staff members, Nelson, at the Refugio to come along and bring an extra head lamp.

I waited and waited and they finally turned pink for about one minute- it was freezing up there.

early morning yoga.

Sunrise.

Renee, Karla and a bad camp stove.

Setting up camp at Los Cuernos.

Rorrey and Koons.

I met Luca on the trail. He's from Northern Italy, lives in the Swiss Alps and is a really good hiker. Probably the best hiking partner/company I came across the whole trip.

cool pose.

We hiked to the lookout for Glacier Gray the last day. It was really windy up there. The extreme weather conditions made it kind of fun.

It was hard to really see the glacier, but there's some floating ice chunks.

I had no plans to go to Torres Del Paine. It happened by chance. One of my favorite things about traveling is either not having a plan or changing my plans. So when I ended up meeting a lovely French girl at the hostel who lives in the Alps and may have well been the epitomy of Heidi, I decided to re-consider my plan to leave for Calafate the following day. She had just returned from doing the "W" trek by herself. I had arrived in Puerto Natales late that night and after meeting her bought a ticket to go into the park for a day hike. I wasn't sure if I wanted to camp out alone for four days, especially with minimal gear. However, the following morning I woke up with a jolt around 6 am and had the strongest intuition that I should just do the whole thing. I was hoping to change my ticket to have a day to rent supplies, but was unable to and ended up having 30 min. to figure out where I was going, run to the ATM and throw anything warm and waterproof I had in my pack to catch the 7am bus. The guy at the hostel was a bit apprehensive about my last minute decision- I didn't have any reservations for the campsites, nor knew if there would be tents/sleeping bags available to rent. He lent me his fleece and as I ran out the door to catch the bus and told me they'd come look for me in four days if I didn't return. It wasn't nearly as intimidating as I thought. I met plenty of nice people on the trail, ended up having enough food, pretty favorable weather and the time of my life! It was the perfect balance of meeting great people to hike with some days as well as having time to enjoy the mountains alone and attempt at soaking up all that beauty.

Casa de Gerrity

2008-11-12T05:08:00.001-08:00

I put together this blog of the Gerrity's home here in case they decide to rent, swap or sell sometime in the near future. http://cerrocastillo-chile.blogspot.com/

Nano's Cumple

2008-11-09T15:32:00.000-08:00

We went out to Quilpue on Sunday for Nano's birthday. Nano has worked for the Gerrity's for many years and is an old, trustworthy friend. He lives on the edge of a monastery surrounded by plenty of lush greenery. The beans from Nano's garden, chancha de piedra (salsa), local tinto and good company made for a fine, traditional birthday celebration.

The spread.

Rob, Jude and Nano.

The parilla.

Rob is tired of alwasy being referred to as "the tall guy with white hair."

This baby was really something. She made me desperately miss my nieces and nephews.

Latest Happenings at La Concepcion....

2008-11-09T15:20:00.000-08:00

These musicians came by to serenade a guest who had a cumpleaños.

We had a group of rowdy, older rugby players from Manchester, England who came by on a Sunday afternoon. We almost turned them away since the restaurant is not a bar, but Rob was smart enough to chase them down, get them some aperitivos and bring them up a few free Piscos. They drank about everything in the place and when the shots of tequila came out we were all a little nervous. It all went smoothly though and they racked up quite a bill in the end.

Me and my "tia/madrina/madre."

This is Miguel- he's from Brazil and a real asset to the restaurant since he speaks Spanish, English, Portuguese, French and some German.

I had to put this picture up for my family because Ronnie looks a lot like my Uncle Dave.

Diego- the happy "ayudante" (i.e. bus boy)

For Lainey...

2008-11-09T14:59:00.001-08:00

This post is for my mom who has a long record of varying craft obsessions like weaving, truly appreciates a good seamstress, and really does think blondes have more fun.

This is Rosita. She's a seamstress- a really good one. When she comes I enjoy observing for a bit over a cup of black tea. She'll turn off her transistor radio, which is always set to the Catholic radio station, to chat. She can fix anything and is so talented that families from Santiago hire her to sew custom made clothes with material from far away places. The dogs are crazy about her.

This is Pitti's shop. It's around the corner from the restaurant. Her signature pieces are these beautiful woven coats. It's a great space- shop in the front and her studio in the back. I wished my mom could have seen the shop since she's always had a huge loom that never seems to fit in her too small craft room and which she rarely uses but will always keep.

She has some really interesting, contemporary woven pieces like this dress above.

Jude wanted my mom to know she still has a lot of blonde. Actually that platinum poof is a fake hair scrunchie that Ines (the manager at the restaurant) gifted her. We thought it was so funny. The following day I received mine which apparently is for a red-head and doesn't blend quite as nicely as Jude's.

Valparaíso

2008-10-26T16:22:00.001-07:00

Here's some photos I took while taking a stroll around Cerro Concepcion, the same hill where the Gerrity's restaurant, La Concepcion stands. This hill is part of the "patriminio"- a protected UNESCO world heritage site. It's full of colorful graffiti, brightly done antique buildings, cobblestone streets, wide open views of the sea and a continual uphill climb.

Rob and Jude under a very large plant.

Cerro Castillo, Sunday Markets and Penny

2008-10-20T10:00:00.000-07:00

Chile has some striking resemblances to California. The towering palms, endless coastline, the Andes rising out of the sea like the Sierra Nevadas, great avocados and even the smog in Santiago like LA. More than anything though, the light here reminds me of California.

One of my most favorite things to do while traveling is going to outdoor markets. Jude and Rob enjoy it as well. Every Sunday afternoon thus far we've stopped by to do a little bargain hunting. They sell everything from antique spoons, to birds in boxes, to fresh squeezed orange juice, to door knobs and fried empanadas. These are two stands I found particularly interesting.

Selling pin-wheels at the Sunday market.

Penny is a Lhapsa Apso. Lhapso Apsos were originally bred as indoor palace guard dogs to Tibetan monks, maybe this explains Penny's "enlightened" temperament. This is Jude giving her a bath.

This is Penny dry.

Jude's Gardens....

2008-10-19T07:31:00.001-07:00

We went to this nursery in the country to buy plants. It was a gardeners dream. A tall rose bush cost $4.50 US. A bouquet of 25 long stemmed roses runs about $8.50 US.

This is the tea garden outside the kitchen. Jude says the roses don't grow as well as they use to, but they look pretty good to me. The Mediterranean climate here is perfect for growing all sorts of plants.

Long view of the side garden.

Jude in the kitchen window.

A previous restaurant manager insisted that all the plants be ripped out to fit more tables in the garden. Jude refused such a stupid idea. Customers often gasp at the sight of the garden- it is truly breathtaking.

They just got torches to light up the garden at night.

Jude says you should never leave the house without a small pair of clippers in your purse. A true gardener should always have a pair handy. Besides being an artist and an excellent cook, Jude loves to garden. Here's a few shots of her impressive work. I feel more inspired now than ever to have my own little garden.

Over the Andes....

2008-10-09T16:24:00.000-07:00

On the way to Retiro with all my bags!

Nay was sweet enough to accompany me to Retiro. We both despise the bus station in BA, so it was a treat to have her there. My friend Jessica also made a surprise appearance to wish me farewell- very dear of her to come all that way.

Chilean side of the Andes.

Leaving BA was bittersweet. I was excited to get out of the city, start a new adventure in Chile and be with Rob and Jude, but also sad to leave behind so many wonderful friends and a place that finally felt like home. Parting ways with my dearest Nay really marked the end of an era for us. We've spent the past 9 months side by side and have been through so much together, couldn't have asked for a better companion. Made it safely across the Andes, for the second time- twenty four hour bus rides seem like the norm these days.

Final Adios!

2008-10-09T15:57:00.000-07:00

"La Esquina Favorita." I painted this for Nay as part of her birthday present. Both of us have spent long afternoons observing the incredible old time cafe that we were lucky enough to view from our favorable perch.

Mateo is from Chicago- he's doing a graduate degree in documentary film here and has been a really good friend- un buen chico!

"Que?" Julieta asked for un plato chico and she got a garden.

all the chicas.

Nay and her longtime crush, Facundo.

Last night in BA we went out to Miranda for Nay's birthday dinner. We chose Miranda mostly for the parilla de vegetales and bife de lomo and partly for all the good looking waiters that work there. Our closest girlfriends joined us and Julieta made sure to avisar Facundo about Nay's birthday- he was more than happy to get his picture taken with her.

Modern Technology.

2008-09-30T08:48:00.000-07:00

One would think that in this age of modern technology no one would be working on their computer as seen above, however; that's not the case. Due to a chronic over-heating problem Nay discovered this ingenious solution of laying the thing on its side to help keep it runnin'. Que suerte Nay has her massage certification because this is a sure recipe for constant frustration and serious neck pain.

More Festejar-ing!

2008-09-30T08:34:00.000-07:00

Il Ballo De Mattone: hair teasing station!

Great reggae band- Planta Baja

Best meal of my life at Osaka- Japanese/Peruvian fusion. Holy moly!

I don't even know exactly what was in those little spoons- curry and some combination of sea food, but I'd put down some serious cash to have one right now!

Rooftop view of Mikey and Robin's cumple + despedida.

Here's a smattering of photos from this eventful past week. On Wednesday we went to Il Ballo de Mattone- my favorite, little Italian restaurant that has quite the happening art scene. There was an exhibition, along with an incredible outdoor living room, hair teasing station, dj from Cuba and a few live bands. The event drew a great crowd and only intensified my fanaticism about the place. On Saturday, James O'Brien was in BA on business and we all got to catch up over an "afuera de este mundo" dinner and afterwards to San Telmo for Mikey and Robin's party.

Cumple + Despedida....

2008-09-30T04:56:00.000-07:00

Painted this birthday poster for all the guests to sign. Julieta was the first up.

Party was a real success. We were at capacity!

My favorite Portena!

from left: Durban, Mikey, Robin, Sims & BJ

The faithful and loyal amigo- Juan!

The infamous Frenchman/life of the party- Mathieu, Nay and Juli

HB and Becca.

In my opinion, there's no good fiesta without dancing and Julieta is just about one of the best dance partners you'll come across.

Mikey and Robin- who are pretty much the boy version of Nay and I.

Nay met Don and Marie because she gave them a massage- they are from Washington, DC and just moved down here. Super buena onda!

Nay and I have thrown three parties since arriving to BA. The first was fun, but I wouldn't call it successful- it was sparse, the second better and this one BAM. It was wonderful to gather all our friends in one place and celebrate Nay's birthday and my farewell with one super fiesta. It was truly an international affair and a most memorable night!

La Feria de Matadores

2008-09-22T06:24:00.000-07:00

Traditional Argentine folk music.

Popcorn!

A nice display of bull horn knives and a hoof mate.

Spent far too much time at this stand trying to choose which knife I wanted. One with a bull horn handle, ostrich talon handle, etc.

I think only in Argentina you'd find a calendar hanging that illustrates all the cuts of meat.

This guy's no stranger to the barbecue.

On Sunday Nay and I went to the Feria de Matadores which is an authentic celebration of Argentine country life, folk music and gaucho traditions. It's held every weekend in the western BA suburb of Matadores. There's a hearty cuisine of empanadas, locro (a stew from Northwest Argentine,) and choripanes (sausage sandwiches.) Folk music emanates from an outdoor stage and couples take to the street to dance the chacarera and chamame. I decided this would be a perfect place to buy a knife to take with me on my upcoming trip down to Patagonia. It's pretty cool- it has a bull horn handle and a bolster with a clip. I figure everyone should have a good knife and you definitely shouldn't go into the wilderness unprepared. A great way to spend "Feliz Primavera"- the first day of spring!

Mala Idea

2008-09-21T15:14:00.001-07:00

This photo was taken the third day after the accident, regretting I didn't take one sooner.

On Monday I attempted to ride on the handlebars of my friend's Sebastian's bike (mala idea) in front of Miranda- a nice parilla where some of our friends work. It resulted in a bad fall right in front of the restaurant window. Nay likes to call me "Mach 10" sometimes when we're walking around the city together, so i guess it was time for "Mach 10" to take it easy. I've been trying to have an optimistic perspective and see it as a time of "forced reflection" but not being able to go to my ballet classes the last week I'm here, is really a bummer for me. However; this misfortune has given me a whole new appreciation for being healthy and active. The good news is I can walk again so I guess "Mach 10" is "back in the game!"

La Ricky Vickys

2008-09-20T17:35:00.002-07:00

Mateo and Julie are from Paris- they're wonderful. Of course the French guy would buy his girlfriend not one, but all the roses.

We know Mateo through Julieta- our Spanish profe!

Our new Peruvian friends who "made" the night.

They know how to celebrate!

The Peruvian ladies were right in on the photos!

That's the cook with the red hat and our waitress in the pink- probably the biggest night the place has had in awhile.

That's the torta (cake.) It was made of many unknown things, but definitely topped with a layer of red, jiggly jello.

Julie cutting her torta!

I'm not sure quite how to describe this night, but it was one of my favorite nights that I've had in BA. After going to La Bomba del Tiempo -a percussion show, we went to this small Peruvian restaurant to celebrate our friend Julie's birthday. The restaurant had a lot of strikes: bad photos of food on the wall (never a good sign,) a cat roaming around inside the restaurant, a TV blaring some Latin telenovela and a kitchen that was far out of sight. All the fun started with Mateo (Julie's boyfriend) who bought her not one, but all the roses off the guy who came in selling individual stems. The guy practically skipped out of the place. There were two other tables of Peruvian ladies, but otherwise the place was pretty much empty. They joined right in when we sang "Feliz Cumpleanos" and from that point on, the fun only escalated. Everyone, including the waitstaff, got involved. The Peruvians enthusiastic and dedicated participation made for a real, unforgettable night.

Surfer Girl...

2008-09-20T17:35:00.001-07:00

Brittany rides all sorts of surfboards, but since her move to the island she's become quite fond of longboarding. I made this painting, as part of her birthday present, in honor of her new classic style. The photo doesn't accurately represent the colors, but you can get an idea.

M A L B A

2008-09-10T15:21:00.001-07:00

I didn't take note of who painted this illustrious oil, but I remember being struck that it was done in 1900. The photo doesn't do it much justice, but in person the red was startling and the paint looked fresh.

There was a wide variety of mixed-media. This is just a small section of a huge piece that used clay and thread.

A three story wall of the museum is a massive window. This piece, which was outside on the deck, seemed like the centerpiece of the collection since you could see it from every floor. It was one of my favorites- the scale and the juxtaposition of such a close- up interior space in an outdoor setting.

Girl entering exhibit titled "Somewhere / Nowhere. Algún lugar/ Ningún lugar " by Felix Gonzalez-Torres (1957-1996) Cuban born contemporary artist.

That is a pile of silver wrapped candies on the floor- up for grabs. I was curious how they keep the border so neat. Everyone who I observed picking from the pile didn't take any from the edge. And if you were wondering, because I was, they are all the same flavor.

Happy guy - free candy!

It was obvious that people really enjoyed interacting, being more than just a spectator. Especially the kids who seemed to have that "take as much as you can and run" mentality.

This room also had 4 piles of free "posters/ paper" for people to take. Nearly everyone walking around the museum was carrying a large roll of paper. Note to self: if you give away free candy and posters at your exhibit people are bound to like it!

MALBA is exclusively dedicated to Latin American Art, dating from the early 20th century to the present day. It's free on Wednesdays, so I took advantage of a chilly, gray afternoon to go check it out.

TAGS. buenos aires.

2008-09-10T15:11:00.000-07:00

Living here has really made me appreciate smoke-free environments. I've seen this tag in probably 15 or so different locations around the city.

Las Leñas

2008-09-06T04:18:00.000-07:00

waiting for the bus... ready to ski!

Erasmo "stoked" on powder.

We made a last minute decision, post discussion with some fellow travelers at our hostel in Mendoza, to ditch our plans to attempt skiing at the nearby Los Penitentes and take an overnight bus to supposedly the biggest ski resort in the western hemisphere, Las Leñas. Nay nor I had packed for cold since the forecast had been pure summer weather. We arrived to Las Leñas early in the morning with nowhere to stay and only to find out the bus to where we had hoped to stay didn't leave till that evening. Nothing was going to open until 9am. I was wearing a summer dress, sweatshirt, leggings and these awful Christmas socks I was so thankful that I brought. We ended up riding the shuttle around, getting lots of stares and asking too many questions at expensive hotel lobbies just hoping not to get kicked out into the cold. There was a blizzard howling outside. We didn't get to ski that first day and the following day Brittany was feeling ill and Nay not entirely dying to hit the slopes. There was at least two feet of fresh powder and it was still snowing. Due to more complications with vouchers I had received from the hostel we didn't get on the hill to midday and our bus left at 4pm. It was some of the best ski conditions I have ever seen. Dry powder up to my knees. Erasmo and I were on the lift when we checked the time and realized we were cutting it too close. Seeing how our luck had been, I wouldn't have been surprised if we had missed the 20 hour bus we had to catch. The chair lift dipped a little lower a ways ahead, so we decided to jump off the lift into a huge mound of uncharted powder. It was well worth the adrenaline rush and we made it back in the knick of time!

Mendoza y Bodegas...

2008-09-04T17:58:00.000-07:00

Nay caught in some pretty light.

Note the progression of these photos, things started off quite nice. You can't see the Andes here, but they made quite a spectacular backdrop.

vines, sun and sky....

First stop... olive oil tasting.

Tough guys on bikes.

"Tough guys"- take two.

Brittany's still feeling tough.

Into the dust storm...

Erasmo- battling the winds.

The majority of the landscape looked like this.

Picture this plus "twister."

Survived the storm, waiting for the bus in style.

Waiting for the bus, taking cover.

This past week Nay and I headed up to Mendoza to meet up with Brittany and Erasmo who were on the top end of their loop returning from Patagonia. To say the least, the trip was a quasi disaster, but incredibly entertaining and memorable. Mendoza is known for its wines and so we decided to take a bike tour of Maipu which is littered with bodegas over a 20 mile stretch or so. It was pushing 80 degrees and the first 10 minutes or so was quite nice- however; the tour on the whole wasn't quite as "Napa-esque" as I had envisioned. The majority of the route was through a run down town, bodegas were hidden behind gas stations and we were getting blasted by truck exhaust. We were all pretty cynical, really ripping the place apart and things only took a turn for the worst. After our olive oil tasting- we had planned to bike to the end and stop on the return stretch- we headed back, into an ugly storm that apparently strikes this region two times or so every year. We lost Linnea, Brittany got hit by a palm frond, sirens were ringing, doors and windows slamming, we were dodging flying trash and riding blind-eyed through twister style dust bowls. We had yet to taste a drop of wine. Once Nay was rescued, we braved the storm to walk one block down to the closest bodega to enjoy a very good glass of tinto- it was well deserved.

BAF Fashion Week

2008-08-22T15:11:00.001-07:00

Cora Groppo!

Brittany practicing her model walk.

Our friend, Jenny, hooked us up with some passes to fashion week here in BA. Brittany, Erasmo, Nay and I all went to see Cora Groppo's show on Thursday. Their Spring/ Summer collection was impressive- incredibly complicated construction, all muted tones and a very fluid, easy elegance to the whole line. Even Erasmo who was a bit hesitant about the whole event, enjoyed it. None of us really dressed for the occasion and we definitely stood out among the super fashionable Argentine crowd attending the show. Brittany's outfit by far took first prize- there's no getup like a Patagonia sheepy vest, plaid shirt and some cargos!

Reunited!

2008-08-22T15:06:00.000-07:00

Brittany and I at "La Bomba Del Tiempo!"

Enjoying some bife de lomo at Miranda.

I've missed Brittany terribly on this trip. Our love for surfing/ tennis/ anything that involves activity and competition made us pretty inseparable in Santa Barbara. I really can't get enough of her company. During our post graduation trip to Kauai, Brittany ended up making a last minute decision to stay on the island and has been living there ever since. Since then she met Erasmo- who is incredible, they're a perfect match! These photos are from their first few days here. They have since left for Patagonia, but Nay and I will meet up with them in Mendoza on the later end of their loop. I miss them already!

Sam Gerrity!

2008-08-22T14:34:00.000-07:00

Nay and Sam at the market in San Telmo on Sunday.

Enjoying ice cream in San Telmo with our friends (Rodrigo- with the scarf, Robin-in the black sweatshirt and Mikey- with the brown hat) who live there. Unfortunately I made the mistake of ordering Nonna Bianca- in this photo I'm feeling a bit bitter about my decision.

Sam, Brittany, Erasmo, Nay and I spent the afternoon at the horse races.

I usually volunteer with a program called L.I.F.E (http://www.lifeargentina.org/) on Friday afternoons. Its mostly doing after school help with kids in who live in the villas (projects.) Sam came along this past Friday and was a huge hit. The language barrier really didn't matter much as he spent most of the time giving piggy back rides. This picture is blurry, but it was such a fun afternoon that I wanted to throw it up here anyways.

Sam was lucky enough to catch this special festival that happened at the farmers market on Saturday, it was celebrating the coming of spring!

This is Juan. We figured Sam could use some guy time, so Juan came over to hang with us. He should've made the blog long ago- he was our first and probably is our most loyal guy friend here. He kind of looks like my brother Joe.

Julieta is my spanish tutor who I found via Craigslist. She has turned out to be one of my closest girlfriends here and I'm really hoping she moves to California- she's considering getting her Master's there. She came with Juan, Sam, Nay and I to this incredible jazz concert at this small community center.

Julieta loves to dance and we love watching her!

Sam and I at the concert!

Brittany and Erasmo arrived the day before Sam left. We all rented blades in the park, which was really a major highlight of the weekend for me.
It's been a really eventful past week. The day after I returned from Chile Sam Gerrity, Jude and Rob's nephew, came to BA for a visit. We were introduced when he arrived at the door, but after a few hours it felt like an old friend visiting. We tried to fit in all the best parts of BA during his short visit. Sam is an incredibly laid back, easy guest and we thoroughly enjoyed his company. I'll be looking forward to him visiting California sometime in the near future!

Pelo de los Tipos- Buenos Aires

2008-08-22T08:01:00.000-07:00

the infamous "cola"/rat tail.

The hippy version of your classic mullet- "the dreaded mullet!"

hippy mullet part 2.

Guys here in Buenos Aires are really quite liberated and seriously creative with their hairdos. The majority have some sort of rat tail- either curled, dreaded, or braided and a mullet is usually involved in one way or another. I've seen some amazing styles that I wish I could have captured on film, but will have to remain a lasting memory instead.

A traves los Andes....

2008-08-14T17:35:00.000-07:00

the crazy camino up and over the Andes.

Portillo ski resort, Chile.

One of the most gorgeous days of skiing i've ever seen, I was thinking about getting off the bus, but it didn't stop.

SKI Chile!

2008-08-14T17:02:00.000-07:00

view from the lodge.

A popular Chilean TV personality was at the restuarant where we ate. Manuel bravely and slightly awkwardly asked for a signature and later on, a photograph. He was thrilled. I love this shot.

Que grupo!

on the way up the mountain.

By a stroke of luck a close friend of our family, James O'brien, was going to be in Santiago for work the same time I was in Chile and invited me to go skiing with him and his business partner, Francisco, and Francisco's son, Manuel. The mountain is incredibly accessible from Santiago, took maybe an hour to get up there from the city and most of that time is spent traversing a very curvy, pretty narrow road. Being with James felt like I was hanging out with one of my brothers, I was relieved that I could keep up and really thankful for the comfortable temperatures which was perfectly suiting for my lack of "gear." Too much hot chocolate, sore muscles and a good adrenaline rush made for quite an enjoyable weekend.

Graffiti art in Chile...

2008-08-14T16:26:00.000-07:00

Chile and the lovely Jude!

2008-08-14T16:04:00.000-07:00

La Concepcion - 541 Papudo Valparaíso

the garden in the back!

leading into the garden....

view from upstairs.

When I heard Jude would be making an unexpected trip to Chile, I decided to take the opportunity to salir the city and cross the Andes to see her. The bus ride took 24 hours, but the part through the Andes alone was worth the trip- the mountains were stunning and after being amidst cement for so long the incredible views seemed even more magnificent. Jude had come down to take care of some business at their lovely restaurant, La Concepcion (http://restaurantlaconcepcion.cl) , in Valparaíso. They have done an incredible job restoring this historic, hillside house into a very cool, top quality cuisine destination. We spent the two weeks running lots of errands and trying to unravel an unfortunate mess the manager had gotten them into. Jude's command of Spanish and her "go getter" spirit was really unbelievable! We spent the nights chatting and trying to keep warm in their big, cold house, managed to take some Pilates classes together, drove some up the coast and had a lot of laughs- it was really a treat to be able to spend time with her!

Some Cool Digs in the New Hood...

2008-07-24T13:36:00.000-07:00

It's been really fun discovering new places since we moved. Here's some of my favorite finds thus far....

ACABAR: Honduras 5733

perfect place to come with a big group of friends to play games- huge nook of board games to select from. Each room is decorated very ecleticly... some serious "buena onda" going on here.

The name to this place has worn off the windows so you can't even read it, but its the type of place that doesn't need a name because it has the sort of feeling that the people who come here have been coming for a long time. Just a plain, weathered, traditional cafe that seems a bit out of place amidst all the trendy, modern restaurants. I can see it from our balcony and often enjoy watching all the old friends who meet up here.

IL BALLO DEL MATTONE: Gorriti 5950
This the "art" cafe which is next door to an incredible, tiny Italian restaurant owned by the same family. Nay and I ate at the restaurant for "El Dia De Amigo" and ended up following the crew (family) to the party here afterwards, really fun- great spot.

CUSIE: El Salvador 6016
This cafe has the feel of an old rustic farmhouse. I love the upstairs part, the big windows and there's a pretty side patio. Plus the food is ricissimo!

ETERNA CADENCIA: Honduras 5574

this is a great book store which has an interior cafe with lots of comfy chairs, natural light and plenty of interesting books- i've spent some long afternoons here.

Bonpland y Honduras....

2008-07-16T15:54:00.001-07:00

the living area...

la veranda... I've always wanted one of those verandas where friends can yell up from the street, as well as one that serves as a prime people watching spot which this is perfect for since each of the surrounding three corners are cafes.

Determined to work on those pull ups. They were always my demise for the physical fitness tests.... currently at 1/2 of a pull up- pretty wimpy.

el dormitorio.

el baño.

really hoping this bad boy works.

quite fond of this print. the space is very conducive to making art , wishing I had brought my paints- on a mission hunt down some this afternoon.

don't mind this one either.

I was almost thinking I was ready to leave the city until we moved the other day. Nay sat on my lap with all our bags, her massage table, crates of food, about 30 plastic jars we had collected all heaped into one "chicito" taxi- we were laughing the whole way. I am crazy for this new apartment- has some serious "buena onda." Its tucked in a happenin' corner of Palermo Hollywood, complete with the perfect bookstore/cafe down the block. Has much more charm than the last place, as well as a bit more space- I can't actually call to Linnea from another room! Not to mention that I don't mind vintage 70s decor in the least. More photos of us "disfrutando-ing" the new space to come soon.

Yogalates....

2008-07-08T17:01:00.001-07:00

Yosie used to not be able to do a back bend without me holding her up- no problemo ahora!

Since coming across work as a "vidrierista" proved to be quite difficult, I am now teaching Yoga/Pilates to private clients around the city. I absolutely love it and am very excited to continue and get re-certified when I return state-side. This is Yosie, she was my very first and probably still favorite client- ella es una divina! I work with her twice a week and she has improved miraculously- I'm really proud of her. She has incredible body awareness and concentration for a fourteen yr. old- she can now touch her toes, do back bends, the crow pose and has some seriously strong abdominals to show for all her hard work.

Good Thoughts for Little Ben....

2008-07-08T16:54:00.001-07:00

My nephew, Ben Ferguson (he's 2) was recently diagnosed with cystic fibrosis. It's been quite a difficult time to feel so far from home. He's being quite a trooper, as is their entire family. Please keep him, my brother- Paul, wife- Michelle and Ben's two brothers- Tymon and Caleb in your thoughts and prayers.

Un paseo por San Telmo

2008-06-20T19:22:00.000-07:00

VaVoom!

2008-06-20T18:59:00.000-07:00

Sarah in her post cut glory.

The last day Sarah was here we managed to squeeze in a haircut with Canadian expat Ryan Oakley- who we had read raving reviews of on an expat forum and have also heard through the grapevine that he is outstanding. Since they are pretty fond of the razor here- hence my hack job where are I got about five layers of bags, we figured it was worth giving Ryan a shot. He lived up to all his rants and raves- incredibly gregarious, dramatic and talented. We heard quite a few times that it's going to be "all about the waves this summer in the states." Sarah's hair looked celebrity status post cut. She has just about the thickest, shiniest, prettiest hue of auburn hair that I've envied since grade 1, so it would have taken a real screw up for it not to look great. Nonetheless, she was definitely struttin' the streets of Buenos Aires afterwards with some beautiful long layers and serious VaVoom !

The Lovely Sarah Corrigan.

2008-06-20T18:37:00.000-07:00

Sarah and Nestor. Nestor is my English student who is Argentine but loves everything about India. He owns an Indian vegetarian restaurant in our neighborhood. I bring him articles to read about spices in Indian cooking and the sitar (he plays the sitar.) He asks me great questions like the meaning of the expression "Whats up?" We had dinner at his restaurant which turned out to be probably the biggest highlight of our weekend. Sarah joined me the next week for one of our conversation classes, Nestor couldn't understand her very well and I concluded that it could be due to a Boston accent she has acquired after living there for the past five years.

Some photos of a very memorable ice cream eating experience at a place called "Scannapieco"- an old joint that's been around since 1938 and owned buy two Italian brothers. Its said to be the best ice cream in Buenos Aires which is a tough claim for a city that's known for its premium heladerias. This one really did it for me, I'll be stopping by here more often.

I should have known that when I saw Sarah the summer before I left and she said she was going to come visit me in South America, she would. She is one of the most loyal friends of all time and I've loved her since first grade and all the way through 12th, even through middle school when she was still wearing stretch pants with stirrups. Sarah has the best memory of anyone I know and she had me cracking up all week about so many people and events I had long forgotten about. We did a lot of late nights on the town, she got to meet almost all of our Argentine friends, hit Palermo for some serious shopping- she purchased this leather coat which made me consider purchasing one and going home a month early, and tasted some superb cuisine. I tried my best to convince her to stay and she almost did due to a huge demonstration that had the city on lock down the day she was scheduled to depart. I miss her already and am so glad that when we're old and elderly and still friends, she'll be able to recount our time together in Buenos Aires like it was yesterday.

Katrina por Vogue.

2008-06-09T11:33:00.000-07:00

This is an a.m. photo I shot of Kate's "bed head" which is clearly worthy of its own post. Hair like that is hard to come by. I love how the crease is right where the color change happens.

2008-06-08T09:55:00.000-07:00

"A man needs to travel. By his own means, not by stories, images, books or TV. By his own, with his eyes and feet, to understand what he is. To some day plant his own trees and give them some value. To know the cold to enjoy the heat. To feel the distance and lack of shelter to be well under his own ceiling. A man needs to travel to places he doesn't know to break this arrogance that makes us see the world as we imagine it, and not simply as it is or may be. That makes us teachers and doctors of what we have never seen, when we should just be learners, and simply go see it."
- Amyr Klink

Arte BA

2008-06-07T12:31:00.000-07:00

Mauro's best impression.

Georgie's best take.

noteworthy signature that is a piece of art in itself.

under each is written "made by slaves for free people"

photograph I've seen more than once here and happen to really like

this piece was interesting- it was made with small slats of wood- almost appears as if it is woven

all tiny army guys.

Recently went to ArteBA (http://arteba.com/) which was an outstanding five day contemporary art fair that is held annually here in Bs As. It stretched about three blocks under one gigantic building and is said to be the largest art fair in South America attracting some of the best Latin American artists as well as a wide variety of emerging young talent. Pretty much every medium imaginable was represented and there seemed to be a lot of art being sold. My friend, Jorge "Georgie," who I met in Floripa, was in town on his way to Bolivia and so he came along with his friend Mauro. We all kept saying we were ready to go, but ended up staying for about five hours since leaving without attempting to see it all proved difficult. I felt pretty inspired, overwhelmed and in serious need of some paints, wood, a sewing machine and space afterwards.

R A W bars.

2008-06-05T08:14:00.000-07:00

Nay and I have been doing some serious experimenting making Lara-esque raw bars/balls/squares- they're so simple y son ricisima también! I don't know why I haven't been making them all along.

Here's some killer combos I enjoy...

"choco coco": dates. cashews. walnuts. dark chocolate. coconut. flax seed.
"la tierra": dates. cashews. walnuts. dried apples. cinnamon. nutmeg (oats. raisins- si quieres)
or you can just keep it basic with a "sueno pacana": pecans. dates

* the only helpful hint I found is to mix equal parts of dates and nuts. I'm sure almonds would be delicious, but since they're a bit more expensive than other nuts here, I opt for cashews and walnuts instead

Vamos! Vamos!

2008-05-20T17:46:00.000-07:00

Kate was my very first running partner- it goes back to the days when my older sister Meg use to drag us around Simsbury Farms Golf Course and hold our arms above our head when we got cramps. Since then Kate has had a quite a stellar running career. So when the opportunity arose to run a 10k, she couldn't resist- that's nothing for Miss Marathoner herself. We could've used Meg's enthusiasm getting up on Saturday morning, but so glad we did. Good crowd, fun course and a whole new experience!

A little of this, a little of that.

2008-05-20T16:10:00.000-07:00

"I'm a tourist and I like tea"

"No me chamuyes."

She came to see the displays!

Cool soap store!

She likes soaps...

and submarinos!

There's nothing better than passing time in a far away country with one of my most favorite people-the lovely Kate Elliott. Some highlights of the past week have been:

Kate speaking Spanish- her first words were palta (avocado) and "No me chamuyes" which means (don't sweet talk me.)
Kate goes by Katrina here in Buenos Aires (like the hurricane.) She's really good at rolling those r's.
browsing markets- especially the weekend market in Recoleta which has a large assortment of hippy crafts which suits Kate's taste
drinking matte- lots of matte!
and most importantly going to the free Shakira Concert at an eco reserve where Wyclef Jean, Alejandro Sanz and an assortment of Latin American pop stars joined together to raise awareness about impoverished children in Latin America (http://movimientoalas.org/default_es.as)

Grunge Arrives in Argentina.

2008-05-20T15:44:00.000-07:00

Soy una Vidrierista....

2008-05-11T20:43:00.000-07:00

Mens window with messenger bags and new mocassins.

Front window with weekender bag.

Womens W Tote. I think the windows are maybe missing some writing along the bottom- some sort of phrase or something. Also the way that black bag on the right is askew is driving me crazy.

Pockets bag and Baguheina clutches.

Mens belts. The parallel window on the other side of the door is the same style with womens clutches. This window isn't quite finished, going to add another product on the shelf below.

I was very excited about the opportunity I had to revamp the windows at this leather goods store, Qara (qara.com), in Palermo Soho. I had 10 days to prepare six windows and Sunday to hang all the displays. I was apprehensive about how it would all look, but with some design guidance from my brother-in-law, Tim, everything came together. I have been completely consumed the past week with the project (buying flowers, collecting supplies that I don't know where to find or how to ask for, and stringing these strands for hours on end in the back room that is the size of a small closet.) I really enjoyed the whole process and feel quite satisfied with the outcome. Hoping for more creative endeavors with window dressing to come.

Oui Oui

2008-05-11T20:21:00.000-07:00

Nay debating the chalkboard menu.

They have this great invention here called a submarino. Its steamed milk that comes in a special sort of glass along with a bowl of dark chocolate pieces. You drop the dark chocolate into the milk and stir.....

A nice spread.

I go out of my way to walk by on my way home.

At a very young age I learned there's no better way to start the weekend, or really any day for that matter, than going out to breakfast. My Dad and I had this great tradition of going out to breakfast together religiously every Saturday morning. Didn't matter if it was snowing, if I had a sleepover the night before, if he had things to do- really nothing got in the way of our breakfast plans. So when I spotted this darling French cafe, I knew- just like my Dad taught me- I had to become a regular. The setting is perfect, the eggs are delicious and the coffee is just how I like it, the only problem is- it makes me especially miss my Dad.

Four Seasons- Carmelo, Uruguay

2008-05-04T17:16:00.001-07:00

I took lots of walks through the forests- reminded me of Great Pond in CT.

On one of my walks I ended up getting picked up via golf cart by one of the workers and taken over to the stables where I learned some names of farm animals in Spanish. This one week old cabritillo was pretty snuggly.

This picture is a good reperesentation of the weekend- bathrobe, comfy chair, crossword puzzle.

Lady Villegas in the grand bath.

Cool little temples scattered around the grounds of the hotel.

Thanks to Jodi's sweet hookup (i.e. family member that works for the Biltmore,) we had the incredible opportunity to spend a couple nights at the Four Seasons in Carmelo, Uruguay. Our days went something like- stuffing our faces at the breakfast buffet- which was beyond delicious, digesting at the spa in comfy chairs, doing crosswords, working out, sauna, shower, taking long walks through the pine forests and showering some more (the showers were so luxurious and there were so many different ones to try- the bath, the shower in the spa, the shower in our room, that we all ended doing a lot of bathing.) It was really refreshing and relaxing- definitely a special treat!

Friends and Fads...

2008-05-01T13:10:00.001-07:00

First steak dinner at Campo Bravo.

Bife de Lomo y Vegetales Grillados- una comida completa!

Sunning in front of a huge solar powered flower sculpture that opens by day and closes by night.

The lovely Jodi Mori, a close friend from college, paid us a wonderful visit. We had a grand time learning and exploring the city together. We tried new restaurants, did some market hunting, a good amount of dancing and a whole lot of walking. I did my best to try to convince her to stay and Nay and I were both feeling a little low when she left- so nice to reunite, reminisce and make some new memories together.

Also thought you folks back in the USA might want to hear about some of the latest fads in the Bs As.

1. Diaper pants- the hippest style of pants here is diaper meets genie- basically a really saggy, low butt. They're quite comfortable looking and I'm not saying I haven't seriously considered buying a pair.

2. Rat Tails- I'd guess about 70% of guys here have rat tails. They come in different styles: you have your standard, braided rat tail in various lengths, but theres also the solo or tri-beasty dreadlock tail. One of the best of this version I've seen thus far was a guy on the subte with completely shaved head except for three huge dreads that fell to mid- back. I guess girls get to be creative with their hair, so guys should have the same liberty. Although; when you see a guy in a suit with a rat tail, it just seems like somethings not quite right. These spottings are a daily highlight for me.

3. Rollerblades- everyone here rollerblades. The majority of rollers aren't smooth high-tech gliders, they're a rickety, old school and mostly purple, but all the more awesome. I even saw a guy while I was running in the park with light up wheels so he could cruise at night. Made me really miss my blades.

381 Luis Maria Campos- Apartamento 3C

2008-05-01T12:53:00.001-07:00

We opted for a nicer studio in a better location than a dingy looking 2 bdrm. We have gotten so use to sleeping together in tight spaces that this feels like luxury-much better than our situation in Brazil where Nay's hammock was hung too low, diagonally across the bed so that she was basically sleeping on top of me.

The big bush in the computer room is about half the tree I dragged in to use for my upcoming window display project.

This is our new residence in the Las Cañitas barrio of Buenos Aires. I feel very grateful for warm water, a closet to unpack my suitcase in and the internet. Not to mention- a sauna, rooftop terrace and a place that is much nicer than Nay or I ever expected. It looks a bit bachelor pad-esque, but we feel pretty cool to live in such a chic spot. The neighborhood is chalk full of cafes, fancy looking eateries and cute boutiques. We're also across the street from "The School of War"- which basically means there's minimal crime, the polo fields and an endless park that fulfills the city life craving for big, green spaces.

Eu adoro Açaí na Tigela!

2008-04-20T08:58:00.001-07:00

This Açaí was by far the best I've tasted in Brazil and located conveniently a short bike ride from Gra's house in Floripa. It was the perfect finish to pretty much any activity.

Whether it was enduring a forty minute heat stroke to get açaí in Fortalez's centro, almost missing our 14hr. bus from Paraty due to a serious craving or comparing tigela sizes of just about every vendor on Ihla Grande- what it all came down to is I was most content in Brazil with an "açaí na tigela" in hand. It currently ranks in my top 3 think about foods... com certeza!

Gra, Fla, Fa and friends.

2008-04-20T08:41:00.003-07:00

Grazielle's mom, Fatima.

Gra's friends and our friend Adam who we met in Rio and met up with again in Floripa!

Some sisterly love - Gra and Fla.

Staying with Gra's family made our last week in Brazil really memorable. They're incredibly laid back, love meeting new people and after a day or so we felt like we were visiting old friends. It was nice to get to know yet another incredible Brazilian family, practice Portuguese and be in a house instead of a hostel. Gra is moving to Milan in just a few weeks so we spent a good deal of time reminiscing about Italy and trying to find her a place to live-she soon shared our obsession of apartment hunting via Craigslist. On Sunday afternoon Gra cooked up a humongous churrasco and we spent our last night in Brazil having an incredible drawn out feast with a little singing, eating and seriously debating whether or not we should leave this wonderful country.

Florianópolis

2008-04-20T08:16:00.001-07:00

Nay catching some late afternoon rays in Armação.

Campeche.

Hooray for natural foods!

Lagoa

Jorge or "Georgie" and Nay.

Tough girl with bike.

Thankfully the sun came out again once we were 20 hours further south on the island of Florianópolis which I've heard described as Southern California in the 1960s, "discovered but still uncrowded." Linnea and I stayed in Campeche- the alternative/ hippy outpost on the island with Grazielle (someone Linnea met via couch surfing- don't ask) and her family. We rented bikes for all five days we were there and spent our first full day chasing after Georgie, a fellow Californian who is a friend of Gra's. One things we couldn't figure out about Georgie was his name. He looks about the farthest thing from a "Georgie." We came to discover his real name is Jorge but since Brazilians add an "e" to the end of everything, everyone there knows him as Georgie. I have gotten so accustomed to introducing myself as "Colleen-e" that I often forget to say the correct pronunciation when meeting other foreigners and have kind of grown fond of the Brazilian version. Anyhoo, Georgie is a documentary film maker/ personal trainer/ has lived just about everywhere in the world and we had a lot of fun having him as our tour guide. We spent a good part of the day trying to act like pedaling halfway around the island and up some serious inclines was no big deal. Nay and I passed the ensuing days biking to places that seemed close on the map but were actually quite far, scoping out the surf, and attempting to replenish our past two and half months that had been seriously lacking in the consumption of anything green. Floripa is said to be the most health, eco-conscious place in Brazil and it showed- the beaches were clean and there was an abundance of small health food restaurants/markets dotting the island. It was the kind of place that made me very apprehensive about moving to a big city... I could have easily been swayed to stay for awhile.

Trinidade.

2008-04-20T08:04:00.001-07:00

We hiked to these natural pools- the highlight was getting ferried back by that tiny boat over some good size waves.

We took our full day in Paraty to check out the nearby scruffy, bohemian beach town of Trinidade. We spent the morning sitting high on some big rocks to watch the ocean, had a failed attempt to hike to a waterfall which was more like a trickling stream and ended the day trekking to these amazing natural pools that were protected by huge rocks. I would like to see this place in sunshine, it'd be the ideal spot for a summer camping trip.

Old Town Paraty.

2008-04-20T07:56:00.001-07:00

We only stayed in Paraty for two nights to break up the 20 hr. bus journey we would have to Floripa. It's a quaint historical town with plenty of nearby beaches and islands. Our friend Rodrigo from Ihla Grande described it as the type of place his grandparents go... sleepy town, charming architecture and lots of trinket shops.

Ihla Grande...

2008-04-19T13:34:00.000-07:00

Pousada Paloma.

Susie and Sebi.

First stop on the boat trip we got to climb some big rocks.

Cool restaurant I snorkeled by on the boat trip called "Reis & Magos."

Susie is a stylist and owns a vintage shop in London, we had lots of fun talking about vintage clothes and also finding a job you truly love.

The fabulous island retreat of Ihla Grande is only a few hours journey south of Rio- it is incredibly picturesque with most places on island only accessible by boat (no cars allowed), plenty of palm-studded beaches, and minimal development. The only setback to our four days on the island was a few days of rain which makes the island's only options (hiking and sunbathing) a little more difficult. Nevertheless, we had a grand time. We switched from the island's hostel- which was a little too "hostel-ish," loud and kind of dirty to a Pousada Paloma which actually ended up being cheaper and a much better choice. As we were half dragging, half carrying our rolley bags down the beach we met a group of five late twenty-year olds on holiday from London who were staying at the house on the corner. They became our new best friends and were absolutely "brilliant!" Most of them had done the "travelling on a shoestring" thing in their early twenties and were happy to offer us the extra spots they had on a speedboat they had chartered to take them to all the secret spots around the island. Even with the gloomy weather, the trip was fantastic. The second day of showers didn't stop Linnea and I from going to Lopes Mendes- which is ranked the 7th prettiest beach in the world and suppose to have great surf. We were both incredibly optimistic about the sun coming out, but ended up getting dropped off in the pouring rain on a deserted beach with the next boat not coming till late afternoon. We found huge leaves for umbrellas but mostly ended up swimming in the ocean to stay warm. I guess few people can say they had the 7th prettiest beach in the world all to themselves. After meeting a few of the locals and the great group from England, neither one of us wanted to leave, the rain ended up being the only thing that made us stick to our original plans.

Wishing I was a Carioca... Rio de Janiero!

2008-04-19T13:02:00.000-07:00

View from the Corcovado.

Cristo Redentor statue.

Lagoa at sunset.

This really cool car called a Gurgel had a really cool sticker of one of the places I wish I could've gone in Brazil... next time.

Nay and I our new friend Adam who we met at the Corocavada.

Adam enjoying a view in Santa Theresa.

Thiaza and Cintia- pretty much take the cake as the funnest Brazilian girls ever.

left to right: Thiaza (Thiago's sister), Nay, Cintia (Thiaza's best friend), me and Lucia (Thiago's mom.)

Linnea and I both were completely blown away by Rio. The beaches were pristine, stunning views and with the world's largest urban jungle there was plenty of outdoors to be enjoyed which makes it a very livable metropolis for people who love sun and sand. I had no idea what to expect since I had heard such polar opinions of different people's experiences there, but I fell in love with the place- its energy, passion, conflict and exotic beauty make it irresistibly magnetic. Our excellent company definitely contributed to my infatuation. Nay had a friend, Thiago, who she met while studying abroad in Spain. His family lives a block from the beach in Barra da Tijuca- a nearby suburb described as the "Miami of Rio" with heaps of great beaches and only 20 minutes outside of the city center. Immediately we felt right at home with Thiago's lovely, close knit and incredibly hospitable family who were overjoyed to show us "their" city. We explored Ipanema where Rio's all too glamorous cariocas were strutting the streets, went to a Baia concert (a sort of Paul Simon meets Bossa Nova meets Phish) in Lapa- the epicenter of Rio's nightlife, took the bonde train to explore the cobblestone streets and marvel at aging mansions in the artist outpost of Santa Teresa, climbed to the top of the Corcovado to catch a birds eye view, and danced samba till the wee hours with Thiaza and Cintia at a club were it was impossible not to be moving. It was a teary farewell after such a blissful few days, but Thiago's family are already planning a trip to California and I'd jump at any chance to return to Rio.

Nossa Família Brasiliera...

2008-03-26T13:17:00.001-07:00

Donna Rita, Jarlene and her daughter, Juana.

Jarlene´s daughter, Julia.

Jarlene´s son (Jose Luís- who has a big crush on Linnea and is pictured here giving her a foot rub) and Ana Clara.

Donna Rita and Jamie.

Jamie... chillin´.

Here is the lovely family we´ve been living with the past month and a half. They´ve been incredibly generous to share their home, meals, family and culture with us. We´ll miss waking up to Jamie whistling away in the morning as he prepares breakfast and Donna Rita´s delicious homemade yogurt!

Novas coisas...

2008-03-26T12:21:00.001-07:00

This beanie almost fits perfect, may need a little tweaking so it doesn´t look like the hats cafeteria ladies wear. We were trying for that looser, baggier style.

These ones fit closer to the head. One style with elastic...

and one style without. Baby hats are the next project in the making.

New tank- a definite improvement from prior attempts, but still needs some fitting adjustments. More wearable, functional and affordable than the all renda blouses which are also incredibly time consuming to make.

We´ve made more color palettes for the pillows- thread combos that match the according fabric sample. The pre-chosen color palettes have probably been one of our biggest accomplishments, the ladies love choosing which ones to use and in the end it has saved us from a lot multi- color fluroescents.

All the pillows need cording around the edges for a more professional look. But this is a start at nailing down some designs. Also don´t have the inserts- they´ll be sent to the States without. I stuffed these with towels and whatever else I could scavenge so they look pretty slouchy.

New pillow design, yet to be sewn. Thinking of having the next model be the reverse (gray stem, white leaves) since it´s nice to have coordinating pairs for a couch.

The ladies have done a great job putting the final touches on the projects we´ve been working on the past few months. We now have ready models of bags, pillows, bikinis, blouses and headbands to be duplicated, sent to Annie and then sold. It was really satisfying to lay out all the new pieces on the last day- a sampling of them are pictured above. We had cake, café, lots of abraços, beijos and promises to return. I´m going to miss collaborating with the women of Casa Cultural- this feisty, festive, strong and beautiful group has taught me a lot about patience, simplicity, hope and determination.

Nossa Clase de Capoiera!

2008-03-26T12:04:00.000-07:00

Nay and I making our best attempt to battle in the roda.

Kel´s flying kick.

Junio.

Dont´t know if I can truly call myself a capoeirista yet, but you could throw me in a roda and I could probably bust a few moves. This class was definitely a tri-weekly highlight of living here in Terra Prom. It´s been a great way to integrate with the teenage boys in our hood and I adored the teacher- he really went the extra mile to make sure the gringas were included.

Iticaré

2008-03-18T10:50:00.001-07:00

first glimpse of Itacare.

Felipe- local surf shop owner who was gracious enough to take me to some prime wave riding spots.

Linnea and Dorit from Israel

Josh had some great dress up clothes and didn´t mind striking a pose.

Sam wearing my favorite outfit from the dress up box.

the whole group at Prainha.

experienced surfer scoping the waves.

Itacaré :

only inconvenience: applying sunscreen

biggest fear: no waves

most difficult decision: whether to have the Açaí bowl with granola and bananas or egg/cheese sandwich for breakfast

Itacaré is your classic, kick-back surf paradise (apparently not so mellow in January/February when it´s packed with tourists,) but fortunately we seemed to hit it at just the right time. It was definitely my favorite spot thus far. One main drag with a few pousadas and good eats. Linnea and I dined at the local falafel place five consecutive nights that served up cheap, heaping plates of tasty Middle Eastern food. The main street continues to meander out of town and past four idyllic beaches separated by cliffs and jungle (all with waves.) The fifth beach, Prainha or "secret beach" was an hour hike through the jungle and made for a memorable day trip with our pack of new-found comrades. Much of the same group we met in Morro had already migrated south. We surprised everyone, including ourselves, with our last minute decision to extend our trip and go the extra distance to Itacaré. Everyone stayed at the same pousada and we formed this grand, ecletic melting pot of friends with Germany, Uruguay, Australia, England and Israel all represented. Days mostly consisted of a morning surf, midday hammock lounge (love how a veranda with a hammock is a standard Brazilian amenity even at the cheapest accomodations) and sunset surf/ frisbee session. Following some of the most relaxing days of feeling sun-kissed and sore from surfing came some of the worst- a 40 hr bus ride back to Fortaleza. The all time low was the stretch were I was seated directly across from the lavatory and the big guy in front of me used the bathroom way too many times for one night. The bus was chilled at about 30 degrees, it was the first time I´ve felt cold in Brazil, but I was repeatedly blasted by a 120 degree stink wave from the bathroom of death. Despite this encounter, the two week trip to Bahia was the time of my life. Now it´s back to work as we wrap up our final week with Fairloom and conclude our time here in good ol´ Terrra Prom.

Boipeba

2008-03-18T10:40:00.001-07:00

Linnea soaking up some rays at the floating oyster shack.

We had a grand day excursion to the secluded, nearly desolate island of Boipeba. We disembarked our lively speedboat at one of the most breathtaking stretches of beach I´ve ever seen and took nice hike to the island´s only center, all the while stopping to enjoy some breathtaking glimpses of beach and ultimately wishing we had spent more time at the initial drop off point. Our trusty boat guides- who clearly loved reggae, their jobs, and life- made a few worthwhile stops. One of my personal favorites was at a floating oyster shack where Jude and Rob instructed us on how to properly eat those slimy, but quite tasty little guys.

The next day was a sad farewell after sharing so many good laughs, talks and island adventures together. I´m already looking forward to reuniting with them in Chile as our last and final stop before we return home.

Morro de São Paulo

2008-03-18T10:27:00.001-07:00

Jude enjoying a Skol.

new friends- from left: Josh "byron bay," Dave, Ami and Sam...

Morro de São Paulo is an island right off the coast of Salvador. It´s packed with young travellers and said to be Salvador´s busiest beach town. Somehow the streets are still made of sand and once you pass Second Beach there are some secluded stretches of coastline. We managed to find a lovely pousada just far enough away from the action. The extensive, complementary breakfast spread got us all out of bed in the a.m. and we pretty much spent the rest of the day trying to find cooler waters and shade to relieve us of the midday heat and searching for the most authentic caipirinhas (or capernums as Jude liked to say) come nightfall. Linnea and I met some really interesting people from all over the world, but Jude and Rob were by far our best company. Hadn´t laughed that hard in quite some time.

Saõ Joaquim market.

2008-03-18T10:22:00.001-07:00

This food market in Salvador was the real deal. Lots of squawking birds being waved and bartered about, cuts of strange parts of meat I´ve never seen before sandwiched together and dominoes being played on the corner of dark alleyways filled with piles of discarded coconuts. It was the grittiest, most alive food market I´ve ever been to, worlds away from a Saturday morning stroll through Santa Barbara´s farmers market.

Salvador De Bahia

2008-03-18T10:08:00.000-07:00

First night´s view from an upper window of a gallery.

Linnea checking into Laranjeras- our hostel. The lobby was a lot more impressive than the rooms, but we lucked out getting an 8 person dorm all to ourselves.

Wall of a junk shop that made me wish I had more time, money and a bigger bag.

I think these guys were into having their picture taken, i like the backdrop.

view from our window...

I hung out in this barbershop for some time one afternoon, made some new friends and decided to skip out on getting my bangs trimmed here.

Hakeem- this photo is for you! That´s Afro-Brazilian record heaven in there.

art studio in Pelourinho.

some of my most favorite people: the lovely Jude and Rob Gerrity

Salvador was our first stop on what was suppose to be a 10 day, but turned into a two week jaunt to the Bahia region of Brazil. There is an unmistakable rhythm to the city- drums can be heard keeping a beat somewhere at all hours of the day and capoiera demonstrations are visible at the turn of every corner. They say there´s no other place in the world where African slaves have preserved their heritage as well as in Salvador- the food, music, martial arts and religion all boast an Afro influence. Pelourinho- the historic old town is perched atop a hill- it´s ridden with cobblesone streets, live music and colorful, stately, old buildings.

By far the biggest highlight of the whole trip was meeting up with Rob and Jude Gerrity- family friends that go way back to my mom´s childhood days. They epitomize the perfect balance of wise, knowledgable adults with the vibrant, adventurous spirit of a young person. Their stories, insights and good humor made for a more than enjoyable trip together.
My failed attempt to attend an Afro-Brazilian dance class (which didn´t commence till the following week) ended up in my good fortune in meeting a lovely girl from France, Vanessa, who was living in Salvador. She took us to an incredible outdoor reggae concert that happens in Pelourinho every Tuesday - Terça de Beñcao. We also got the chance to work on our samba moves that night at some small, corner bar with a great live band.
Pretty much everyone who comes to Salvador gets a fita (colored ribbon) tied around their wrist. It is a souvenir of Igreja de Bonfim and each of the three knots symbolizes one wish that should come true once the knot comes undone in a few months time. I had the great misfortune of getting mine tangled in my hair elastic while swimming and having to rip it off- that can´t be good luck.

Bikinis.

2008-02-29T11:54:00.000-08:00

Here´s our first attempt at incorporating renda into bikinis. We had to switch up thread because we figured cotton wouldn´t fare so well in the water- even though renda done in cotton looks the nicest. The brown design is a silk thread and the green, nylon. Josalina- the women who sews the bikinis- originally predicted she could get 8 bikinis out of the fabric we gave her, that´s 8 Brazilian bikinis- American bikinis require double the amount of material. The rendeiras designed a bikini using one circle mandala to cover each boob. Cultural difference. Anyhoo... they´re far from perfect, but I think they have potential. Vamos a ver!

Almofadas...

2008-02-29T11:46:00.000-08:00

Here´s some new pillow designs we´ve been working on. Trying to decide whether or not we should add embroidered leaves to the stems. Any suggestions?

This is our second go at the bird pillow. I re-drew the bird, slimmed out the stomach and we placed the stick a little higher so it doesn´t get lost at the bottom of the pillow.

Donna Nilda- the toughest and best rendeira came out of nowhere with this design. Picked out this dark brown fabric for the pillow- really makes the colors pop. I´m scared to ask her to make things, but I´m hoping she´ll pump out a few more of these.

Gostozo...

2008-02-29T11:40:00.000-08:00

This is Sr. Jamie- our homestay dad. He listens to Louis Armstrong type Brazilian music in the mornings, dances in the kitchen with one hand on his belly while making carne asada and is always telling us to eat more. Apparently pulling on one ear means you like something very much. The other day we had a good laugh because after tasting the dinner he prepared I pulled on both ears- he thought that was great.

Cumbuco...

2008-02-27T12:25:00.001-08:00

Sunday we were able to spend the day at the beach with Jarysson (our homestay brother,) his daughter Ana Clara and wife Ana Lucía. It was maravilhoso!

Mani Pedi in Terra Prom

2008-02-27T11:56:00.000-08:00

I think my feet have seen the worst of their days living here in this dry, dusty, sandal culture- so the offer to get a pedicure with our new homestay mom- Donna Rita, was very enticing. Linnea and I moved last week to live for the rest of our time here with a homestay family. My dear friend Jenna, from Santa Barbara, connected us with the family she lived with while studying abroad here. It was definitely a small world moment- they live about 10 min. from where we work and Jenna knew all about Fairloom- which is a fairly small operation. They adore Jenna and already have been incredibly hospitable to us. Back to the nail salon... for the most part I´m not much for nail polish on my fingernails, but am definitely a sucker for the occassional pedicure. I wasn´t sure what to expect, which is nothing knew since I have become quite accustomed with the "never really quite knowing what I am getting myself into" aspect of living in a different culture. The salon was a front room of a house-and whosever turn it was sat in a plastic chair with a cold bucket of water for your feet. One girl had the worse job of picking away and scrubbing at your feet, while the other was the artist- getting your nails done means getting designs on them as a well. Although I was a little wary at first of how sanitary all the tools and definitely over-used pumice scrubber were- it was worth the risk. They went at it- Nay was still in pain the next day from the blood drawn. For the three of us it took four hours, with some snack breaks, and other sorts of distractions like a lady who came by with a suitcase of bras to sell- it was definitely an all girls afternoon. When it time came for the painting, I attempted to ask for the most basic option- hoping to avoid the sparkly fireworks, swirls and flowers. But this request was quickly shot down, so I gave in, flowers, glitter- the whole bit. Muito chic!

Belleza Brazilians...

2008-02-21T14:20:00.000-08:00

Hands on the hips/model pose is most popular for the girls.

Even the little ones.

This is Alex. Arms crossed/ tough guy pose is most popular for the boys.

Seems like everyone´s braiding something in Terra Prom. Friendship
bracelets are all the rave for the kids.

Can´t get over this little guy. He kills me every time.

Design Update...

2008-02-21T13:53:00.000-08:00

The first finished almofada (pillow.) Trying to sew with wobbly tables, using books and wood to measure crooked fabric and very rudimentary sewing supplies makes an already frustrating craft a super challenge. This first model needs a little tinkering- a less chunky bird, more defined beak, and longer stick to perch on, but for the first time around its not half bad.

Experimenting with headbands. Don´t have a picture of the original headbands, but here´s the first model of the new style. We´ve removed the fabric beneath the renda that the orignial headbands had, made them a bit wider and replaced plain, white elastic with this colored elastic we found in the centro (it´s actually elastic used for bra straps,) but it works. We´re going to make the renda part a bit shorter so it´s easier to take on and off.

Policia Federal.

2008-02-21T13:15:00.000-08:00

You would have thought a rockstar arrived with the giddy screaming that began when two motorcycles whipped by Casa Cultural around 11 am. Two young, strapping policeman strode in and the already animated renderas were incredibly excited. The whole "play it cool" factor was completely absent. This was their second visit, we missed their first appearance last week. I was skeptical since what I have witnessed thus far of the policia federal has left a sour taste in my mouth. A couple weeks back I saw an alarming beating of some innocent teenagers. The police´s presence is feared and they´re notorious for being unnecessarily rough with suspected offenders. These guys were an exception. They weren´t trying to be super macho men and actually seemed very interested in the cooperative and whats happening in the community. To the delight of all the renderas they promised to pass by more often to keep things in check around here.

Notice his walkie talkie in the renda bag.

Bikinis, color cards, pillows and more....

2008-02-14T12:54:00.000-08:00

Above: the "bikini" lady and the new lace mandalas we´ve all designed

to be inlayed in the back.

The bird for the pillow.

The front of the pillow. The renda will be behind this piece showing

through to the front. The women are really good at embroidery!

The recipe style color cards for the new color palette.

This past week has been quite productive for Linnea and I on the design front. Last Monday we had our feature design presentation complete with a slideshow of inspirational images, a box full of color cards, new sketchbooks each decorated with a magazine cutout and a design bulletin board that is just starting to be filled with images, photos and fabric swatches. The women were very receptive and began discussing/arguing about ideas throughout the entire presentation. They loved the sketchbooks and each got such a huge kick out of the pictures we had chosen for the front. We gave Nilda- the speediest rendera who is also pretty serious and a bit grim, the craziest looking model with the most ridiculous outfit- she finally cracked a small smile. We also "unveiled" recipe-style color cards we made to suggest some new color combinations. Samples of the thread are shown on the front and the women made small squares of renda to tack to the back of each card. It concluded with us explaining, in broken Portuguese, our sketches for a few new products we hope to focus on: bikinis with renda inlays in the back and pillow covers with embroidery and renda. In the ensuing days post presentation we´ve had loud knocks at the door and various renderas strutting in flaunting their "muito chic" designs with much pride.

The other monumental event this past week was my first capoiera class. I´ve joined a group that meets three times a week in a nearby school. It´s free- all levels, all ages. Our teacher, Jackson, is completely surfer- yoga- zen- Santa Barbara type guy. Every class is a little different- but a large portion of it is drums, singing and the roda- where everyone forms a circle and two people enter the middle to dance/battle. First time I was tapped to go in the circle- mind you my experience is 0 to nil, I was a bit unsure. While my partner was literally doing flying high kicks and spinning on his head I was making sure to duck and threw in a few cartwheels- basically I´m in major need of some more moves. Fortunately, everyone is really supportive and welcoming and makes me feel like I did a good job even though I´m quite sure, at this stage, I´m a disgrace to the sport.

Left to Right: Donna Rita( her model was suppose to be her in her younger

years, she loved that,) Josiane, and Nilda (with the crazy model.)

Carnaval + Guaramiranga

2008-02-08T05:54:00.000-08:00

I´ve had two significant language blunders thus far. My first was an attempt to compliment my new Brazilian friend, Ana, on her dress. My pre-meditated sentence, "Eu gosto seu vestido" got a very confused/surprised look in return. Apparently, the word seu, Portuguese for "your" is pronounced similarly to seio meaning "boob." Fortunately we cleared up the confusion and all had a good laugh. The second was Linnea and I´s misunderstanding of the word barraca. With no grandiose Carnival plans we accepted a last minute invitation to go to Guaramiranga- a small, colorful town in the mountains that has a renowned Jazz/Blues Festival during Carnival. We went with Gisa, who we were introduced to only a day before, and a whole group of her friends. The four hour bus ride there was a celebration alone. We arrived late Friday night with our backpacks and hammocks to discover barraca means camping. And Carnival camping- due to the crowds- means we had rented out someone´s backyard that was literally at a 60 degree slant and had 10 other tents more or less pitched on top of one another. Having to invest mental energy to make sure you don´t roll down the hill while your sleeping, along with the tradition of Carnival being a 24 hr. celebration doesn´t make for the best nights sleep. However; lots of friendly Brazilians, some hiking/swimming in nearby waterfalls, a chocolate shop on the main street, great jazz/blues infused with Brazilian samba and forro made up for any lack of shut eye.

Do As You Please.

2008-02-08T05:41:00.000-08:00

Here in Terra Prometida there´s few regulations- mostly, it seems, that if you want to do something you "just do it!" For example; if you´d like to sell Havaianas flip flops and meat on a stick out of your house- open the window, put up a sign and your in business. If you feel like having a barbecue with your friends on the center median of the main drag, Leste Oeste- haul your grill across three lanes of traffic, turn on some music and start cooking. No one will stop you and even better, no one really cares. The best one I´ve seen is if you feel like preaching- set up some mega speakers outside your front door, grab a microphone, maybe a couple neighbors and let it rip!

La Biblioteca...

2008-02-01T03:53:00.000-08:00

Favorite Pastimes for kids in Terra Prom:

Flying kites in their underwear
Hearing what their names would be in English
Putting on shows- that include dancing and droppin some serious beats

Nay and I have been spending some time at the biblioteca- which is across from Casa Cultural and a daycare/school for the kids in the neighborhood. It was built and is funded by a nun from Canada. I think the age requirements are something along the lines of being able to walk to being too embarrassed to say you go to the library. The kids play very rough- ´´keep your hands to yourself`` would seem like a silly request- it´s more like ´´please don´t drop kick your neighbor`` or ´´try not to drop the two year old on the cement floor more than three times.`` Nevertheless; the kids are very helpful, independent and sweet and miraculously seem to make it through the afternoon without too many tears or serious injuries.

Below: some of the library goers during their rest time.